Fitzroy

Took the bus from El Calaphate to El Chalten. My advice would be, when you book the bus, insist on getting the seats at the front on the top deck. That way you’ll have a stunning view all the way there. It’s really magic seeing Fitzroy and Cerro Torre rise out of the plains. These walls are legendary amongst mountaineers (which I’m not!), but it was still wonderful to see them in the raw.

The town of El Chalten itself was lovely actually. Somewhat expensive but not awfully awfully so, and they have some very nice touristy places (like a decent ice-cream shop!.. nyom). We had planned a few walks to do while here, to Fitzroy and Cerro Torre, and to go O Higgins. However, when we were in the information place, we had our big map out and some French tourists were looking at it, and asking about a 4 day hike that we’d not considered which looked and sounded amazing. It did require getting a harness & slings & carabiners, as there were two tyrolean traverses to navigate. When we tried to book the gear, it was all out for 4 days (at least) so we opted to the walks to Fitzroy and Cerro Torre first. Good job too as it gave my stomach time to settle itself.

Just a 3-4 hour walk in to Fitzroy, but very nice views all the way along.

Then there’s a good hour walk steeply up hill to get to the final views. Worth it for sure.

I was too lazy however to get up at 5am again and walk all the way up the hill for the sunrise. No, I just got up at sunrise instead and had a look to see what I could see. Far easier ;)

Then the following day headed to Cerro Torre, there’s a nice little track which brings you from Fitzroy across, without having to go back to town. Hot day… stunning views though.

I’m no mountaineer, but the top of Cerro Torre looks damn hard, exiting out from the rock into the overhung mushroom of snow. It’d be awesome to climb it, but I’d want to be guided up there!. I dunno, I think those days are gone, and, while I’d love to be up there, it’s just a little bit too far outside my risk appetite zone, and you really have to be extremely single-minded about it. Anyway, great views and a nice little campsite too.

Next day, back to El Chalten itself. This time we stayed in the campsite (way cheaper option, and a nice place – worth thinking about if you do have a tent).