More Snaefellsjokull, rotting shark and further Northwards

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lavatasticpurty

It really is an impressive lump o rock. We went for another coastal walk, hoping to see some puffins, as it was still the season. No luck, but we did see some big stones which the local fishermen used to lift as a form of competition. I was just able to lift the lightest one. I felt entirely manly.

lifting stonesstrong

We also saw a couple of wrecks along the coast, this one left as a memorial (Eding – English Trawler, wrecked in 1948).

wreckeven the rocks have hats

We saw a hut here too, it was quite bare inside and was a clubs I think, i.e. not quite the backcountry hut network that NZ has. Still, quite serviceable and nice inside.

hutbirdssmall waterfall

Then it was on Northwards, in the direction of Akureyri, passing a few interesting places along the way. One of which was a small museum and a rotted shark factory Hákarl. It was reasonably tasty.. actually.

puffinmuseumshark meat

We had a pint of beer one of the evenings, or was it two. I can’t remember. I do remember it was weak though. I guess the very high tax on alcohol means that they don’t get stronger beers? I’m not sure, but it was underwhelming. Probably one of the few underwhelming things about Iceland we experienced. That said, if you came to NZ I’d probably recommend something off rather than on tap… so maybe it’s to be expected :)

menaturalkinda weak

Nice evening though, the campsite was in the middle of town, but that was OK. And like a lot of places, the toilets had a radiator in them! It really must get seriously cold in the winter.. I mean you aren’t very shy of the Arctic circle up there.

Iceland: First couple of days – mostly Snaefellsjokull National Park

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I was so excited to go to Iceland.. and wasn’t in the remotest bit disappointed. One thing I guess I was surprised by was how expensive it was. I thought it was going to be cheap after their banking collapse.. but no.

Here you can see a picture of our sadcar.

our trusty car

Not actually that sad at all really (that’s just the name of the company). It had over 300K on the clock. Rust, dents, scratches and chips pretty much everywhere… but it did us fine. It also cost 744 Euro to hire it for 13 days ~ 60 euro a day. That’s not cheap in my book, but it was pretty much the cheapest thing we could find. Still, it did us proud and it did mean we didn’t really need to worry about scratching it up on the roads..

First off, we got slightly lost on the way through town which turned out to be a great thing as we found a large supermarket. This was key to success as basically no one lives outside of Reykjavik so buying bulk foods is a good idea to do in town. Maaike had also had the very sensible idea of buying what we could in the UK and bringing it over. Another very good idea. We should have bought nuts! (very expensive in Iceland for some reason).

Anyway, shopping done we stayed in the campsite in Reykjavik (we actually camped every night in Iceland), which was also a good idea. People leave all sorts of stuff there which you can just take. So we picked up some drying up cloths, foam squares to sit on, a couple of small chairs (which we never used), cleaning utensils etc. We also bought Methylated spirits for the Trangia stove I use.

methylated spirits

Very very expensive stuff as it’s alcohol.. which is taxed really strongly in Iceland. I think that bottle ended up costing us the best part of 30 Euro. I never saw it in supermarkets so it was very handy to buy it in Reykjavik before heading out into the unknown.

Anyway, the first couple of days was spent in the Snaefellsjokull National Park mostly going “ooh” and “aah” and seeing the completely weird geology as the lava?! I guess, hits the water. You really do wish you’d studied geology when you’re in Iceland.

Here are some pictures (some of which are Maaike’s)

someone's having funeven more crazy coastmore crazy coastcrazy coastfjordnot a bad view for eternitycoast churchyes, that's grass on the roofrecognisablescenerylava

Finally, two other things worth commenting on.

Firstly – the signage is excellent. Every major new area you enter there’s a big sign listing points of interest, and a map. Dead handy

area mapgood sign posting

Secondly, and I’m afraid I don’t have too much on this… is the Icelandic Sagas. For example, this gorge was inhabited by (I need to get the guidebook for the name). And there’s obviously a whole story about it. To the Icelanders, the sagas are far more worthy of note than the scenery. I’m afraid I was far more concentrated on the scenery!

here be sagas

One thing which… concerned us, was how often we said (especially in the first few days) “well, this is beautiful, but so is New Zealand. We definitely are spoiled living in NZ, and it is honestly hard to find a place more scenic in such a small area. Certainly moving on from Snaefellsjokull National Park we did find ever more scenic places.. but yes, it was a thought. i.e. how spoiled we are in NZ – and how … inured you become to some otherwise very beautiful places. If I’m making this sound like we weren’t stunned… we were.. and definitely more of that to come – but it was something that we noted.

Quick stop in to London

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After Cornwall we headed up to London (thanks for the lift Dad!). There we stayed with my cousin Thomas and had the unexpected pleasure of getting to see cousin Catherine and her husband Alex (who I’d not had the fortune of meeting yet).

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It was such a lovely time as it always is seeing them. Cath also brought along a rather nice bottle of port which her dad had given to her a long time ago which she’d saved, lost, found and now opened. Excellent excellent time. Someone hurry up and invent teleports please.

Maaike and I also managed to get a few hours in with my old college roomate and fellow engineer Declan.

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Again, really great to be able to catch up with him, if for too short a time. He’s still as wonderful a trickster as ever.. some things never change.

Cark (phonetically speaking)

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We had a quick trip down to Cork to see Paddy & Becks. Unfortunately, Becks was called away on a business trip to New York, so we didn’t get to see her. It was a lovely break down there. I’d not really spent much time in Cork before, so it was nice to have a wander around.

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Not that these are really pictures of Cork.. but hey ho. I’d forgotten just how incredibly narrow the streets are in Irish towns. We had a lovely time though. Paddy is now working for Heinekin so there was no end of nice beers to try.

We did go for a nice ~4km walk along the coast

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Definitely a useful thing to do, as I realised that the shoes I’d bought before coming travelling were _eating_ my feet alive. A good thing to know as the rest of the trip was going to at least involve walking (in Iceland) and I needed decent walking shoes. A quick trip to the handily located Patagonia European outlet store (in Dublin) was arranged and I ended up in something I could actually walk in.

Ok, not that exciting a story about the shoes, but honestly, it meant a lot at the time ;)