Day 1 of the rafting started at 9:30am, when we got on the back of the truck and drove to the river. This took us until 3pm!!!. Nothing to relate except that we picked up an Australian (Pete) who was coming on the trip – but left from Vientiane that morning.. and on his bus he had a guy with an AK47 sitting beside him (banditry is still real over here!)

Once we were actually on the river it was lots of fun, the rapids were mostly 2/2+ and I think one 3 on the first day.

The campsite where we stopped for the night was great though. Very basic (just candles for light) but a beautiful spot. Every so often there’d be a loud crash in the jungle – bamboo falling.

The second day was more fun – up at 8 and on the river pretty quickly. The rapids were mostly 3’s. The only 4 on the river we portaged most of the way – as every time they try to run it they miss the line needed to get through safely, and the raft ends up getting sucked into a big hole and flipped!

On the way we picked up a catfish (I think) from a lady who lived on a tiny island on the river. She caught fish and left them tied under water – so that ppl could come along and buy the still-alive fish. We had some for lunch. Raw perhaps? It was utterly disgusting!

All too soon it was onto a boat (rafts stacked on top) for a 3 hour trip down the flat part of the river (and lake). It was really quite scenic though (water buffalo pic above). The trip was good, the scenery was stunning and the campsite was great, but neither I nor Mhairi reckon it should be advertised as a 2 day rafting trip!! If both days had been like the second then it would definitely have been worth the $90 each.

Back to Veng Vieng, met up with Chris, Emily, Martijn, drank a little too much, and now off on a bus journey to the mysterious plane of jars…

Was supposed to get a days climbing in today – but unfortunately there was a guided group gone out and they’d taken all the gear so we couldn’t hire. Quite the shame really, I was excited to get climbing in a new place.

So had a leisurely breakfast. In fact that really is one of the great things about Asia, great coffee and delicious fruit shakes (and pancakes) for next to nothing for breakfast. I’m getting fat(ter)

Instead hired bikes and cycled off to explore one of the caves. Quite a pleasant 4km cycle (hot though). The cave was *huge* really huge, no need to duck your head anywhere!!

Off on two days white-water rafting tomorrow.. grade 3&4 I think. I’ll get all the names of the rivers etc later! but it’s the same one that friends in NZ did (Greig & Clare) only they kayaked it – ‘cos their hardcore!

Vang Vieng is a lovely little up-and-coming-queenstown sorta place. It’s nestled amongst some spectacular limestone mountains about 4 hours from Vientiane. The place is riddled with caves (probably loads to be discovered still) and will definitely become the climbing mecca of Laos. There’s just SO much rock around, so many unclimbed climbs.

We had a fairly lazy day after we arrived, not getting up to much during the day, and then went on a tubing trip down the local river. Lots of fun floating on a big inner-tube. Every 400m or so there was another stop where you could swing high and fall into the water (and drink beer). Mhairi and I both did one of the jumps – hopefully get some pics to put up at somestage.

Before leaving Vientiane we had time for a quick excursion out to the Buddha Park. A monk from here went over to Vietnam and lived in a cave with a guru. He came back from being enlightened and made this massive park blending Hindu and Buddha images.

For this he was persecuted and eventually had to flee the country. Then the government turned his work into a park and make cash out of it. Nice.

Our bus to Vang Vieng was at 2pm, and we got a tuk tuk at 11am with Chris, Emily, Martijn, Mhairi and I. At about 12:10 we got to the park… our tuk-tuk had played cheesy music at full blast all the way, anyway, thought we had time to see the park for 40 mins and then head back again. I am not sure what all the sculptures are (please help me out anyone who knows!), but the pumpkins mouth symbolizes time devouring.. There were 3 levels inside, depicting hell, earth and heaven. The pic beside is hell – people getting impaled ‘n everyfink.

So yes, well worth getting out to. The next two pics – are Martijn and Chris beside a 3 headed elephant, and Mhairi, Emily, Chris and Martijn all reclining beside the large reclining buddah.

Went to get the bus back. Tried to tell the driver to go fast, that we needed to get a bus at 2pm. He stopped to pick up locals… we decided to let whatever happen happen as regards catching our bus (but it was annoying)

Just got to our hotel at 2:05… apparently the bus had been and gone, but had only gone to pick up from the other hotels.. So we were fine.

5 minutes before the bus arrived to pick us up – our tuk-tuk arrived again (announced by the blaring of his music and the bright red seats). He picked up a suspiciously familiar shaped bag and walked towards the hotel. It was my camera bag!!. I’d totally left it on the tuk-tuk in the rush to get the bus (and had completely forgotten about it). IF the bus had been earlier I’d never have got it back – or if our driver hadn’t been so honest. What a guy. Totally restored my faith in everyone in the whole world ;) hehe, well.. it was a lovely surprise!

Arrived into Vientiane at 6am, found a hostel. Slightly amusing we went into one hostel (close to the one we wanted to check out) and asked where the one we wanted was.. he said it was just up the road and would telephone to see if there was space.

Funnily enough, there was no space.. we decided to go check out the hostel we wanted anyway.. The guy at the reception also told us there was no space (funnily enough) but that there might be in an hours time.. slightly deciding to call their bluff we sat down to wait .. and then, magically, there *Was* a room available. Dunno why the receptionist of a hotel would want to pretend there was no space.

No, actually I can make a small guess as to why he’d tell us there was no space… laziness!! I think most of Laos was out getting pissed the night before at the festival!! That and the fact that they have ‘happy meals’ here… you can get ‘happy pizzia’ (I almost did in Phnom Penh)… It’s happy because it has a large amount of marijuana on it! So not *quite* the same as a McDonalds happy meal… And I think perhaps it is the fact that 3/4 of the population are permanently stoned gives Laos a wonderfully laid back feel. Everyone is super cheerful and don’t hassle you at all. Loving it so far.

Anyway – had a look around town – walked up the Arch of Triumph (Patouaxi), a massive concrete arch (made from concrete the US donated to make an airport!), still decent views over the city.

Then walked on to That Louang, the most important religious symbol in Laos. Originally built in the mid sixteenth century, but was plundered for gold, rebuilt and rebuilt again.

The highlight however has to be the Massage and Herbal Sauna at Wat Sok Pa Louang. This is a must do if you come to Vientiane. For $4 you get a really great herbal steam Sauna, and then the best (damn!) massage I’ve ever had. The guy knew exactly where needed work (I think he cracked every bone in my body, twice) and it was just amazingly amazing. Really really worth checking out. (in fact I’m tempted to get a bus to Chiang Mai from Vientiane just so as I can have another massage)

Met up with Chris and Emily who we’d met in Saigon, and had a few cocktails and some food (and fun with helium balloons) down by the river, all in all an excellent day.