Slowboat to Thailand
The trip to Thailand was an adventure for sure! We took the slow boat (as fast boats run with a mortality rate of about 10%)
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There was some lovely scenery on the way, and plenty of time to play cards, catch up on diaries and books. It takes 2 full days from Luang Prabang to make the border. It’s a really cruisey affair up until the last 30 mins of the trip!
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Oh, Matt (an English friend of Canadians (Julie, Leilla and Mia) that Chris and Emily had made somewhere along the way! – anyway Matt totally terrified the poor boat people by pretending to dive off the boat. It *was* kinda funny though.
So.. in Luang we’d booked all the way through to Chang Mai. Knowing it was going to be a slight rush as our boat got in at 16:30 and we had 2 hours to clear customs and get to the bus depot.
Our bus got in at 17:20 ish… there are horror stories about people getting bags knicked and I can see why. It was a mad dash to make it to immigration before it all closed. Then a boat across to the Thai side where the official wasn’t super happy about 8 people arriving 5 mins before he had to close, but still, we were stamped and let through – and found that our bus would leave when we were ready.. so in the end all was well…
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That evening as we arrived into Chang Mai there were fireworks going off all over the place. We’d arrived at the end of a festival and everyone was letting off these lanterns – the sky for miles was dotted with these things.. it was really really beautiful. However, after 62 hours of travel we didn’t make the most of it perhaps.
Oh, the pic of the lantern, and most of the ones on the boat trip were Chris’ – and of course the one of him discovering the real use of the jars.. so thanks to him for those.
Hiking, and why bamboo really is the shoot
We took a two day hike up through the hill tribes around Luang Prabang. It really was one of the most worthwhile things I reckon we’ve done in the last 3 months. Our guide (Kampha – which means no parents!!) was excellent. While he didn’t speak great English – he spoke enough, and was able to point out so many interesting things.
Mhairi has regressed slightly in her toughness… indeed she insisted on being carried across the rivers (of which there were many)
Ok, so that last paragraph may not have been strictly true. There’s just too much to talk about so I think I’ll gloss over most of them… Oh, I did choose this day to have my first really upset stomach of the last 3 months. Sticky rice and sweet potatoes seemed to do quite a lot of coagulation though!
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There really were many weird insects, beetles and spiders.
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The highlight was staying in the village that night. We played games with the kids, sang with them (watched them play a sort of volleyball game (but only using feet and head)). Then in the evening we were brought into the main meeting house. There a flowery contraption was set up, gifts (food and money) were presented, and quite a lot of lao-lao (think poitin – but from rice) was drunk. Seeing as it was in our honour, we had to drink quite a bit! Then they all took it in turns to tie a wristband on us (saying wishes of good luck (we’re led to believe!!)).
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Course, the only reason the kids did it was for the sweets.. still… we were happy!!
Bamboo really is wonderful! I reckon these ppl would be lost without it! They build entire houses from it, ladders!, aqueducts, make paper and even eat it!! Really amazing stuff.
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We also got to see their schools.
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And even to hold their babies
Unfortunately I miss timed the taking of this picture.. 10 seconds later the baby decided to make himself.. a little… lighter ;)
Really, amazing trip!
Luang Prabang
Luang Prabang is a UNESCO World Heritage town. And it sure is purty. Temples galore, and the heart of it is small enough to wander about with ease. The Mekong winds its way around the town, and all in all ’tis a nice place. The former capital of Laos.
So went for a wander around town. Some of the temples sport the 5 tiered roofs. The relief on this temple shows the second-to-last incarnation of Buddha on his way to enlightenment.
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The palace is worth a walkabout I reckon. Not that they have kings any more. Inside is a copy of the Pha Bang. A 50kg gold image of the Buddha. Seeing as it was seen to confer divine legitimacy upon whatever ruler possessed it – the pha bang has been the source of many wars. The original is said to reside in a bank vault in Vientiane, though there’s a rumour it was given to the Russians in return for aid..
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There was a painting on the inside showing some of the terrible things that happen to Bad People. One adulterous couple is being chased by rabid dogs (up a thorny tree with crows waiting at the top to peck their eyes out!). Murderers are being boiled in oil, and liars are being hung by their tongues.. cool eh!
Had a quick walk up Mt Phousi, before another massage.. back still is sore from a squash game before I left NZ!! Perhaps a trip to the chiro in Dublin is called for.. Nice views from the top though
One room was interesting – the diplomatic gifts that they received from different countries. America (Nixon) gave a piece of moon rock with an inscription along the lines of ‘This rock to promote peace and unity amongst all nations‘. This after they’d dropped one bomb every 8 minutes for 9 years.. slightly hypocritical you might say. I’m so never going to be let into the US to visit my sister in January ;)
Anyway, after that had a wander around Wat Xieng Thong (temple of the golden city) The mosaic is of the Buddhist tree of life. Luckily the original temple from 1560 (looks like a hen they say) still exists as the Chinese never razed it when they captured the city.
The Plain of Jars
The drive from Vang Vieng through to Phonsavan is really worth doing (regardless of the plain of jars themselves).
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We stayed that night in Kong Keo guesthouse, while it does have the disadvantage of being recommended in the Rough Guide ;)… (lets go is just so much better) it is a great place to stay.
There was a trip organised the next day to view the jar sites. The leading theory at the moment is that it was a funery site. Quite possibly the first site in S.E Asia where all the components of the funery rites were first practiced.
First the corpse was stripped of flesh? (I think) and left in the jars for a while, then the bones were taken and cremated before second burial (always across a waterway from human habitation). That’s what they think anyway…
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The plain itself has lovely scenery, and we walked from Site 3 to Site 2 (For lunch). Mhairi being the only intelligent one who’d actually brought raingear.. gah.. the one time I forget it.. ;)
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That night a good meal, watched a film on the secret war (When America dropped one bomb every 8 minutes every day for 9 years). Can you imagine? Crazy. It’s also that when the bombs stop the trouble continues – kids still pick them up / try to open them for the gunpowder.. Needless to say no guilt was admitted nor reparations paid… (but yes, the Russians were supporting the Pathet Lao (Communists))
After the film however it was down to good old karaoke (there was another Irish there..). We muddled our way through Laos songs (they show you the syllables). We were *amazing* .. Honestly.
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