Pampus – UNESCO Site – and Teylers Museum

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So we stayed the night at Maaike’s lovely Aunt Jessie and they took us to a nearby UNESCO site – called Pampus. Well, it’s part of a massive UNESCO Site – The defence line of Amsterdam. It’s a 135km long line of forts (built in 1880-1920) – and they could flood the area around Amsterdam (to a depth of ~30cm) so that vehicles and men couldn’t get attack the city.

Course, as soon as they built it – modern warfare basically made it obsolete, but still, it’s a pretty impressive feat of engineering.

We went to the fort of Pampus. Took us a while as the bridge was out. Hopping over was quite tricky.

Where's the road?

The fort itself is on a man-made island. It was never actually attacked, but it was an impressive place to look around. They’re really gearing up for tourists at the moment – and unfortunately the guide was in Dutch (or German?!) – but they did have an English printed guide – so I was able to wander around quite happily.

Here’s a picture of the entrance, and the covered walkway (so grenades couldn’t hit you!)

Entrance to PampusYour grenades can't get me now

It was quite interesting seeing how the island was designed – basically they were expecting to be attacked from certain directions – so most of the defences (and thickness of walls) was dependant on that. There was the ‘keyhole’ passage which ran around the front of the island – walls of about 15m? of concrete. Or something…

Model fort of PampusAptly named keyhole tunnel. 'cos it looks like a keyhole 'innit.

The boat ride there and back was on the IJsselmeer which is a 1100km squared lake which the Dutch created in 1932. They really do know a thing or three about all things hydro in this country. Still, they’d want to with a rising sea level, and an average height above sea level of – oh – 3m? maybe? ;)


We also went to Teylers museum which is the oldest museum in The Netherlands.. Teyler was a cloth merchant and banker – and left his fortune for the advancement of science, religion and art.

The museum has been left as it would have looked in the 18th century. This means that the fossils etc. are arranged & grouped as they were understood at the time.

Black crystalFunky oval roomPlanetsPaper globe

The image below is of Martinus Van Marum’s large electrostatic generator (built by John Cuthbertson). The two large disks (1.65m in diameter) were rotated by a crank. These rub against friction pads which build up charge which is then transported to conductors.

Electrostatic machine

It produced a spark of 61cm – which implies a voltage of 330,000 Volts!

There were also lots of paintings – and they were also arranged in the style of the time. If you look at these sets of pictures you’ll see that they’re symmetrical in layout and the large paintings in the bottom left and right corners are opposites of each other (winter and summer, and stormy and calm)

more paintingspaintings in the style of the time

But finally it was time to leave The Netherlands and head to Oslo. It was lovely to be brought to the airport by Maaike’s Aunt and cousins. They just wanted to make sure we actually left see us off safely.

Maaike, Jessie, Inge, Geke, Toon

Thanks Jessie, Inge, Geke, and Toon :)

Norway -> Fishing

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Flew into Norway (Hurrah! no Volcano) and Guusje (try pronounce her name *if you dare*) met us off the bus in Oslo. Which was good – as it’s a maze of a place. Or at least, at 1am it is. Maaike and Guusje met back teaching in the languages department in TCD many moons ago.

Guusje is now living in Oslo with her partner Inge – who is an excellent chef and a great wit – and a very very keen fisherman. And really, with a 10 day walk of a forest on your back doorstep – with literally thousands of little lakes full of trout it’d be a great place to be a fisherman.

So – a 10 minute car drive from the city centre the forest starts. There are tracks throughout for cross country skiing and huts to stay in, and there was still snow in the forest.

hutsnow

So, this fishing lark is *actually* harder than it looks. I suspect there’s something Darwinian going on. Presumably after all the fishes who like shiny metal hooks have been caught – then the genes change. But not fast enough for this delicious brown trout that Inke caught for us.

troutwowreflectionmore wow

It was a great first impression of Oslo. I can’t really think of another capital which has such amazing outdoors opportunities just 10 mins from the centre.

Don’t worry – it’s not all roses (especially for tourists) but that’s more to do with oil and the shrewdness of the Norwegians. More to come…..

Amsterdam

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So, leaving Posterholt, it was off to Amsterdam for drugs and debauchery culture and sightseeing.

It’s a funny old place really, and a lot of the houses seem to be just about to fall over… (even more so since they put in a tunnel and didn’t adequately check for subsidence!)

Amterdam - leaning houses (plus rubbish)

Two things you might notice in the above photo. The rubbish – ‘cos the cleaners are on strike – and, way harder to see (might even be impossible at that resolution) – most of the houses have hooks at the very very top. See, if you want to move house – the way to do it is to winch it up via those hooks (and a rope you can hire from the council??! I think)

Anyway – went for a wander through the streets. I was just taking a picture of some canals (not this pic)…

More AmsterdamEven more

… when Maaike said “Perhaps you shouldn’t – we’re in the red light district. I had actually been quite oblivious (just thought it was a little seedy). However, when you actually look about and see the girls purveying their wares in the windows – well, it’s quite obvious where you are. Slightly unsettling too.


What was more unsettling was going to the World Press Photography exhibition in the old church. This picture of a young Israeli man throwing wine over an old Palestinian woman was, I thought, horrendous. Not as brutal as many of the other photo’s – but it’s incredible what humanity can do. Or – what humanity can be taken from people.

Sigh, anyway – Amsterdam was a groovy city – would be fun to spend some more time there perhaps!

Midget Golf

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For the last couple of days we had more tours through lovely little villages in the general area.

I think that’s what I enjoy most about olde Europe – the fact that everything is a hodge podge of whatever has lasted this long – I mean just check out all the funny roofs..

Look at all the funny houses

Also – on the canals – at least this one – Windsurfing is strictly prohibited. No sense of adventure at all!

No windsurfing here

There were lots of airplanes shot down in this area in WW2 – and there are memorials all over the place.

Crash

We also visited a bunker near a convent – that had a chapel in it – all quite eerie. Did however manage to make the best ever drop sound (for me at least)

Status in tunnel

Also – they don’t play mini-golf in this country – they play Midget golf. It was a close run game, Maaike tells me she threw it to make me happy – but I frankly don’t believe that’s true. Who would do such a thing?

SignMidget Golf

.. But they do have fine, fine beer.

Maastricht and Eefje

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Then it was off to Maastricht where the treaty that formed the European Union took place. We met up with a friend of Maaike’s (and mine) from TCD – Eefje (who travelled with Maaike in NZ– many moons ago).

Maaike’s parents took us on a walk about and to a Belgian Beer garden (in Belgium – where it’s cheaper) for a beer.

Grand Randoneesso very true

This marker is part of the Grand Randoneé network of huge walks throughout continental Europe. From here you can walk 2512km down to Nice (it would be, wouldn’t it ;)

We also visited an old fort where there was an interpretive centre attached. There were some interesting stories etc… and also, it turns out, time for our first poll in quite a while. Maaike is hidden somewhere in this picture… is she on the Left, in the middle, or on the right…? Vote now.
Poll

[poll id=”1″]

Then it was time for a walkabout in the city. It really had a very nice feel to it actually – with a big amusement park installed in the centre (temporarily). Also, the traffic lights have achieved gender equality here.

ChurchChurchFemale lights

The only bad thing about this trip really, is that saying goodbye to friends can be a little hard – it really is the downside of living in NZ. That said, I’m sure given time that NZ will become more and more of a desirable place to live – and then we’ll be having lots more visitors!

Maaike and Eefjesad