From Tilcara we headed North for a break from our holiday ;) .. we went to the (nice) Malka hostel, a recommendation from Maaike’s friend Eefje. Another stunning drive through a very eroded landscape.
Tilcara has a nice feel about the place. A pre-colonialisation town with a partly restored Incan town/fort. They made a monument to the archaeologists who investigated the place. They built the monument at the top of the town..
Unfortunately several houses, workrooms and a main square used during the Incaic Period were destroyed to build the monument
…
Nowadays, together with the rebuilding of the structures and the vehicle road, the monument is a sign of the different interventions made during the 20th Century. Pucara de Tilcara does not only provide information regarding the people of the past, but also about the development of Archaeology as a discipline.
They also have a lovely botanical garden, featuring lots and lots of cacti!
We also did a quick walk up the hill overlooking the “fort”, which gave a nice view of the prominence of the terrain, as well as the size. There were about 2,000 people living there back in the day.
The following day we did a hike up to Garganta del Diablo, a big canyon a 4km hike from town. It was created during some tectonic upheaval. It looks like there used to be a way to get down to the canyon floor, but it looks like that has been nuked at some point. It’d be fun to abseil down and have a wander about.
Another long bus ride, this time from Mendoza to Salta. 20 odd hours or something. Good time for reading books, and updating my vimwiki_markdown gem. Essential for all those vim readers out there ;)
It has been quite nice using the laptop on the long bus rides, even though I only get 4-5 hours of battery as it’s a little old. However, once in Bolivia and Peru, I’ll not use it on the busses.. too much asking for trouble.
Anyway, Salta, founded in 1582, and with quite a lot of nice 19th century buildings, it’s a nice place to walk around for a day or two. Lots of cathedrals. I quite liked the Franciscan one where they had some nice monastic chants playing over the speakers. I also liked the floor that made me feel like I was in an Escher painting.
A definite highlight was the high altitude archaeology museum. For the Inca, mountains were places of worship, and so there are a lot of burial places high high up on the mountains. There was an amazing find of 3 complete mummies up on Mount Llullaillaco. Somewhat controversial as it meant removing the bodies from the mountain. They were probably from rich families, and the children would have had a ceremonial marriage cementing relations between families / geographical areas. Then the children were brought back to their villages, feted, then brought up the hill, given a ceremonial drink to knock them out and finally buried alive. An interesting exhibition though and worth a visit if you’re in the area.
We also took a visit to the Museo de Ciencias Naturales (natural history?). Lots of armadillos. I likes armadillos I does, and pretty bufferflies, and very tiny birds and a Trilobite
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